Dholavira -> Patan -> Modhera -> Adalaj -> Ahmedabad (4.2.25)

Today was the last leg, a travel of 300 km to Ahmedabad, which had been our starting point. We were up at 6.30 am at Khadir Homestay, the sky quiet and dark, while the waking household stirred around us. Speaking to the owners yesterday, it looked like tourists did not stay much at Dholavira, preferring to stay at Dhordo, or better still, return to Bhuj after a day’s outing, but my route-designing principle (never return the same way) had made for this new routing, which was all to the good, actually. Aunty-ji put together some excellent poha, and that, coupled with some ginger tea, was as good starting rations as any.

Leaving Dholavira (8.30 am)

If we wished, we could have seen a grand sunrise while driving east out of Dholavira, but I had no clue this would be the case. At 8.45, we were a bit late for such antics. The sun was already a bit high in the sky.

The drive out was a surreal peaceful one, with miles of well built roads whizzing through villages. These seemed to be cultivation-based lands - cotton, castor oil, wheat, mustard, tobacco, cabbage, and larger trees like mango. There was no great show of opulence and mechanised farming. They seemed to be mid-level farmers.

Rani Ki Vav, Patan (12.30 pm)

Four hours and 235 km later, our car rolled into Patan, almost vertically north of Ahmedabad. Patan, established in the 8th century, is famous for Patola sarees, and, of course, Rani Ki Vav.

A Vav (or a bawri as it is called in Rajasthan) is basically a well, usually ornate and well-decorated (pardon the pun), with steps going down to the bottom. Consequently, they are also called Stepwells. Located on the banks of the Saraswati, it is attributed to Rani Udayamati, wife of Bhima I, a Chalukya king, who built it in the 11th century. It is designed like an inverted temple, with much refined artwork.

Sun Temple, Modhera (2.00 pm)

Built on the lines of the famous Konark Sun Temple, this was also built by Bhima I. The sculptures on the walls are beautifully detailed. A big pond, the entrance structure and the temple proper are laid down in an east-west direction. I was indeed surprised that I had not heard of it earlier.

For both this temple as well as Rani Ki Vav, we were impressed by how well ASI were maintaining the structures. We had seen in other places that they take their time to acquire a lot of land around the structure. These grounds held plush lawns and flower-beds, and families had turned out to these historical parks to spend a few hours, refreshing their local history in the process. Good job ASI.

Rudabai Stepwell, Adalaj (4.30 pm)

This small town close to Gandhinagar houses another stepwell built in the 15th century in memory of Rana Veer Singh of the Vaghela dynasty. A very detailed well going down five floors, this is the smaller than Rani Ki Vav, but more intricately designed.

Although stepwells are popular in both Rajasthan and Gujrat, I had found the ones in Rajasthan to be less ornate, but sometimes deeper, with criss-cross flights of steps going down the sides. The steps in the Gujarati wells had a number of landings and were in unique sideways and forward patterns mixed together.

Reaching Ahmedabad (6.00 pm)

We were staying with a friend (cum ex-colleague) who I was meeting after more than 30 years. It was a fun-filled evening of reminiscences and catching up on life happenings. A lovely end to a wonderful 12-day trip.

Tomorrow morning, I fly back to Kolkata, while Panna flies to Vizag for a three-day meet with her friends. 

Gracia, Gujrat. 🙏